Black Diamond Ultralight Camalot vs. Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Comparison Guide

For any climber who frequently finds themselves on long approaches, gear-intensive routes, or alpine adventures, the idea of “ultralight” in any aspect of gear is generally worth investigating. And with several new ultralight camming devices coming to market in the past year alone, there’s undoubted potential for some serious weight savings. But—as many have pondered—at what cost?

To make things easy for you, we’ve created this comparison guide, which outlines the differences, benefits, and specs of both the Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, so you can choose what ultralight cams (if any) are right for you.

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Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight

View Lowest Prices: Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight Set

The Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots parallel the already loved and trusted Camalot C4s (now simply referred to as Camalots) in camming range, color-coding, and double-axle design—but these spring-loaded camming devices have been made 25% lighter. Black Diamond created these cams in sizes #0.4 – #4, leaving out the #0.3, #5, and #6, for several reasons, but primarily due to less weight savings being achievable with the larger sizes.

Differences from the standard Camalot

With weight savings ranging from 21-29% per cam (depending on size). Replacing a single rack of #.4-4 Camalots with ULs results in an overall reduction of 239 g (8.43 oz); even more weight savings are offered if you’re replacing doubles. Without a doubt, incorporating Ultralight Camalots can make a noticeable difference for your rack load.

Weight reduction features

Integrated a 14mm Dyneema tape sling, which is slimmer and lower-profile
Replaced the C4’s steel stem cable with a dyneema core stem
Designed sculpted lobes with openings to reduce more weight
Incorporated smaller diameter trigger wires

Spec comparison

As you can see from the spec comparison below, this weight reduction favors larger cams most (a #0.4 will save you around 22 grams, whereas a #4 will save just over 62 grams). And, importantly to note, with the Camalot Ultralights, less weight does come with a reduction in overall strength (albeit a considerably minimal one) at about 2 kN less per cam.

Camalot

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Weight

[0.3] 75 g (2.65 oz)
[0.4] 83 g (2.93 oz)
[0.5] 99 g (3.49 oz)
[0.75] 119 g (4.18 oz)
[1] 136 g (4.8 oz)
[2] 155 g (5.47 oz)
[3] 201 g (7.1 oz)
[4] 289 g (10.2 oz)
[5] 380 g (13.4 oz)
[6] 557 g (1 lb 4 oz)

Strength

[0.3] 8 kN (1798 lbf)
[0.4] 10 kN (2248 lbf)
[0.5] 12 kN (2698 lbf)
[0.75-6] 14 kN (3147 lbf)

Range

[0.3] 13.8-23.4 mm (0.54-0.92 in)
[0.4] 15.5-26.7 mm (0.61-1.05 in)
[0.5] 19.6-33.5 mm (0.77-1.32 in)
[0.75] 23.9-41.2 mm (0.94-1.62 in)
[1] 30.2-52.1 mm (1.19-2.05 in)
[2] 37.2-64.9 mm (1.46-2.55 in)
[3] 50.7-87.9 mm (2.00-3.46 in)
[4] 66.0-114.7 mm (2.60-4.51 in)
[5] 85.4-148.5 mm (3.36-5.85 in)
[6] 114.1-195.0 mm (4.50-7.68 in)

Camalot Ultralight

ultralight camalot

UL Weight

[.4] 61 g (2.15.oz)
[.5] 74 g (2.61 oz)
[.75] 89 g (3.14 oz)
[1] 101 g (3.56 oz)
[2] 126 g (4.44 oz)
[3] 167 g (5.89 oz)
[4] 225 g (7.94 oz)

UL Strength

[.4] 8 kN (1798 lbf)
[.5] 10 kN (2248 lbf)
[.75] 12 kN (2698 lbf)
[1] 12 kN (2698 lbf)
[2] 12 kN (2698 lbf)
[3] 12 kN (2698 lbf)
[4] 12 kN (2698 lbf)

UL Range

[.4] 15.5-26.7 mm (0.61-1.04 in)
[.5] 19.6-33.5 mm (0.77-1.32 in)
[.75] 23.9-41.2 mm (0.94-1.62 in)
[1] 30.2-52.1 mm (1.19-2.05 in)
[2] 37.2-64.9 mm (1.46-2.55 in)
[3] 50.7-87.9 mm (2.00-3.46 in)
[4] 66.0-114.7 mm (2.60-4.51in)

Cam range comparison

As mentioned, the Ultralight Camalots crossover with the Camalots (C4s) in cam range sizes, but if you’re going for a well-rounded rack, you’re likely going to have a variety of different cam sizes and styles. The chart below shows how various Camalots overlap in range:

BD Camalot range comparison. Image: Black Diamond

Price comparison

While the benefits of going ultralight are undoubted, you’ll pay a steeper price (roughly $25 more per cam). Here are how prices between the regular Camalot and the Ultralights compare:

Camalot

[.4 – .75] = $64.95
[1] = $69.95
[2 – 3] = $74.95
[4] = $89.95

View Lowest Prices: Black Diamond Camalot C4

Camalot Ultralight

[.4 – 1] = $89.95
[2] = $99.95
[3] = $109.95
[4] = $129.95

View Lowest Prices: Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight

Additional considerations

The Camalot Ultralights feature a more ergonomic design in the stem and thumb loop, intended to ease the process of placing and cleaning gear.

As with their other cams, Black Diamond will change out the preset slings for you—simply send them in for replacement, as necessary. The Dyneema stem of the cam cannot be replaced.

The BD Ultralights are UV protected, which supports the longevity and exposure that these cams can handle. Like with all gear though, longevity will be determined by the frequency and terrain in which you use your gear.

All Black Diamond Camalots are made in Salt Lake City, Utah.

Hear a brief overview of the Ultralights from Black Diamond’s Climbing Category Director:

Reviews / awards

A consumer review:

Not only will this save you on approaches, but placing the cams is effortless, and you will notice the difference on your harness. The #4 in particular is considerably easier to maneuver on your harness and in your hand. These aren’t my daily driver, but they will definitely be on my next Winds trip!

– Grant Burton, via Backcountry.com

The Camalot Ultralight has also received the following awards:

Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

View Lowest Prices: Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Set

Considered one of the best small camming devices on the market due to their already light weight, narrow head, flexible single-stem design, and affordable price, the original Metolius Master Cams already stand as a highly trusted form of trad protection for small and more obscure cracks and features.

These cams, like the Black Diamond Camalots, are also color-coded by size, although Metolius uses a different pattern than BD relative to their sizes. They feature a replaceable Monster sling (a custom blend of nylon/Dyneema) and uniquely provide a Range Finder system, which helps you identify a solid placement (using green-to-red colored dots) to ensure you don’t over or under cam your device (see image below).

Range Finder chart. Image: Metolius

With the loyal following that these cams already have, it’s no surprise that the new Ultralight version—which feature some significant upgrades—already have a growing following.

Differences from the standard Master Cam

The newly released Ultralight Master Cams weigh on average 20% less than the original Master Cams (now discontinued), and 40% less than most conventional cams without losing any camming range. The new ultralight variety come in 10 sizes, including #00 – #8 (Metolius added the #7 and #8 to this lineup, which are the approximate equivalent of a #2 and #3 Camalot).

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These updated cams (which pair well with matching color-coded FS Mini II carabiners) feature a new jagged, tooth design on the lobes, which are CNC machined to ensure greater precision and security, while keeping your cams from walking in cracks. Sizes #5 – #8 include a thicker cable to alleviate concerns about the larger cams being flimsy.

Unlike the Ultralight Camalots, the smallest cams of the new Metolius line actually saw the most weight reduction (just over 30%), while the larger ones saw less weight reduction, as no metal was removed from the cam lobes to retain their strength.

Related: Cam Range Comparison for Trad Gear