First established in 2011 by legend Dani Andrada, Corazón de Ensueño (5.14b, 8 pitches)— found on Getu, China’s wild limestone “Great Arch”—stands as one the longest and steepest climbs in the world.
This is definitely the best climb I have ever created. It’s hard, long, and so unique.
– Dani Andrada
Felipe managed to achieve the second ascent, and the following day Alex snagged the third (… while coping with a broken back). All in all, the strong duo spent five days working the moves and cleaning the route before making ground-up sends. Watch the process unfold, as captured by the ever-talented, Jimmy Chin.