I used to think belay gloves were a frivolous accessory, worn only by people with too much money and free time for shopping.

My opinion changed after demoing a pair at a climbing festival. I was surprised to discover the benefits of using gloves while belaying, and I later discovered even more uses. Now I own two different pairs (full-finger and half-finger) and use each in a specific way.

belay-gloves-on-harness

I hardly noticed the extra 4oz added to my harness while climbing on Yosemite’s Absolutely Free, and I enjoyed the benefits at the belay.

Full-finger belay gloves

I use my full-finger gloves to keep my hands warm and protect my skin while belaying (so I can climb more), belay better, and have more control while rappelling.

When I belay without gloves, I find that I handle the rope differently to prevent skin abrasions. Even though this is a small distraction, it uses some mental energy, which could instead be directed towards the climber. When I belay with gloves, I feel more in the flow of the activity and am more focused on the person climbing.

When rappelling with gloves, I can brake quicker and easier, and, again, maintain focus without the distraction of protecting my skin.

Full-finger belay glove pros:

  • Keep hands warm
  • Protect skin
  • Better belay/rappel control

Full-finger belay glove cons:

  • Cost
  • Taking them on and off

Best uses:

  • Belaying
  • Rappelling

At first, I owned a pair of Outdoor Research Air Brake Gloves (similar to the Direct Route Gloves), which blew out after three years.  These leather gloves have fabric on the back for ventilation.

Outdoor-Research-AirBrake-Gloves

My first pair of Outdoor Research AirBrake Gloves

I now have a pair of Outdoor Research Splitter Work Gloves and am very pleased with their performance (I am not sponsored or affiliated with Outdoor Research). I bought these in 2018 and am only now starting to see minimal wear where the rope runs over my thumb. They are very comfortable, lightweight, and breathable. I even wear them in the summer.

Outdoor-Research-Splitter-Work-Glove-wear

Outdoor Research Splitter Work Glove, with minimal abrasion.

Full-finger belay glove options

Black Diamond Transition Gloves

Goat leather with extra leather in high abrasion areas. Breathable stretch fabric on the back of the hand, except for leather knuckles. Leather cuff.

Metolius Belay Gloves

Cow leather overall with extra leather in high abrasion areas; no fabric. Leather cuff.

Outdoor Research Direct Route Gloves

Goat leather with extra cow leather in high abrasion areas. Breathable stretch fabric on the entire back of the glove. Neoprene cuff. Large, easy-to-clip loops.

Outdoor Research Splitter Work Gloves (My recommendation)

Goat leather overall with extra cow leather in high abrasion areas. Polyurethane/nylon overlay on knuckles. Leather cuff. Large, easy-to-clip loops.

Petzl Cordex Gloves

Goat leather with extra leather in high abrasion areas. Breathable stretch fabric on the entire back of the glove. Neoprene cuff.

Half-finger belay gloves

I use my half-finger gloves when jumaring and when climbing on easier multi-pitch terrain when the rock is super cold. You may think that it sounds very odd to climb with gloves on, and a few years ago, I would have scoffed at the idea, too. But after enduring desperately cold hands too many times, I opened to the idea.

For example, I wore my half-finger gloves on the first 10 pitches of Marmolada’s Don Quixote route and was glad to have them. I’ve even found that I can hand-jam comfortably with these gloves on. I definitely prefer climbing without gloves, but when it’s a choice between numb hands or less contact with the rock, I go for the warmer choice.

When jumaring numerous pitches, the half-finger gloves are great for preventing blisters and reducing hand fatigue. The leather gives more friction when gripping the jumar handle, which reduces the need to over-grip. For example, I used my half-finger gloves when jumaring the crux pitches on Yosemite’s Border Country, while I supported a friend on his project.

Yosemite’s-Border-Country

View from Yosemite’s Border Country

Even when it is hot, I prefer to belay with full-finger gloves over half-finger gloves, because the rope still makes contact with my skin when I wear the half-finger gloves.

Half-finger belay glove pros:

  • Keep hands warm
  • Protect skin
  • Better belay/rappel control (full-finger gloves provide even more control)
  • Reduce hand fatigue, if jumaring

Half-finger belay glove cons:

  • Cost
  • Taking them on and off
  • Fingertips are still exposed to the rope when belaying or rappelling
  • Reduced “feel” of rock, if climbing

Best uses:

  • Jumaring
  • Rappelling
  • Climbing over easy terrain in cold conditions

I have a pair of Outdoor Research SeamSeeker half finger gloves, which I bought in 2015. These aren’t produced anymore, but there are several other options on the market.

Half-finger belay glove options

Black Diamond Stone Gloves

Goat leather overall with extra leather in high abrasion areas; no fabric. Leather cuff.

Metolius Climbing Gloves

Cow leather overall with extra leather in high abrasion areas; no fabric. Leather cuff.

Outdoor Research Fossil Rock Gloves

Goat leather with extra cow leather in high abrasion areas. Breathable stretch fabric on the entire back of the glove. Neoprene cuff. Large, easy-to-clip loops.

Other glove considerations

If you’re searching for a vegan option, Black Diamond makes the synthetic leather Crag Glove, however, I haven’t personally tried these and am skeptical of the durability.

I recommend going to your local climbing shop and trying on a few pairs to see which size/brand feels the best. Some shops may even let you demo a pair, or you could also try on friends’ gloves at the crag and ask their opinion.

And make sure to keep longevity in mind! One of my favorite climbing partners purchased a pair of $5 work gloves from a gas station, but these, however, only survived one year and she later upgraded to a Marmot leather half-finger glove.

need-gloves-to-beautify

I’m still searching for gloves that beautify my hands with each use.


Related Posts