best hangboard workout

Developed by V15 boulderer Chris Webb Parsons, I have simplified and outlined the only hangboard workout you need to get V10+ finger strength in just twelve weeks.

Note: this is not for new or inexperienced new climbers. Do this at your own risk!

What you need to do this hangboard workout:

  • Hangboard
  • Sling/rope/door frame for assistance
  • Timer


To get started, watch the following video:

To summarize, this workout is essentially a series of one-armed hangs from a thin edge. Left and right arms are alternated, supplemented with varying angles of the hanging arm. I have outlined the schedule below:


Related: A Beginner Guide to Campus Board Training


To do this workout effectively, you can use a personal timer or an app, such as Interval Timer. Best of luck and if you have hangboard regimens of your own, please share in the comments below.


Related: The 6 Best Training Recovery Tools for Climbers