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Climbing News: First Female 5.15b and New Speed Record on The Nose

Natalie Siddique
angy eiter

Angy Eiter becomes first female to climb 5.15b

Just a mere eight months ago, no woman had ever climbed 5.15a/9a+ … since then, three women have now crossed this incredible difficulty threshold (first Margo Hayes, then Anak Verhoeven), further expanding the boundaries of what we as climbers thought possible.

Yesterday, on October 22, Angy Eiter—a four-time World Championship and three-time World Cup lead climbing winner—became the first female to climb 5.15b/9b with her ascent of Adam Ondra’s La Planta de Shiva in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.

One of the most memorable days of my life. Planta de Shiva 9b ✅ … I still can’t believe it. A dream came true! ????? #verleihtflügel #jedentagtirol @team_edelrid @lasportivagram #9b ? Redbull Contentpool/ E.Holzknecht

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Unbelievable! ?? Slowly I start to realize what I’ve triggered in the climbing community when I clipped the anchor of a route 24 hours ago. I didn’t expected so many congratulations ? ?. People you are awesome ??! Trying „Planta de Shiva“ was an amazing experience and I really enjoyed every session on the route since October 2015 although I struggled with many defeats during the process. I didn’t believe I can do it and actually decided just to focus on the second pitch of “Planta de Shiva” without the first one as it turned out to be hard enough for me. Many sessions were needed to figure out the moves. ? Anyway, I knew it was my style and I was inspired by the moves, which I guess was the key to my success. In support of a specific preparation at home I started to try combining the second pitch and I surprisingly made very good progress. This October I completed the second pitch. Then, I wanted to know if I can also add the first powerful 8c pitch. Two days later on Sunday 22 October I found the answer… ? @michal_climb #verleihflügel #jedentagtirol @team_edelrid @lasportivagram

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After Ondra’s FA of this route back in 2011 (his 5th ascent of the grade), he noted that it was “one of my hardest so far,” and its second ascensionist, Jakob Schubert, confirmed its stoutness by claiming it as his hardest route ever last year.

Watch the first ascent of La Planta de Shiva:

Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds set new speed record on The Nose

It’s nearly unfathomable to imagine that anyone could ever beat Alex Honnold and Hans Florine’s mind-blowing speed record of a mere 2 hours, 23 minutes, and 46 seconds on El Capitan’s 3,000-foot route, The Nose … but folks, it just happened.

After deliberate training for back-to-back seasons, on October 21, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds shaved four minutes off the record, establishing a new, terrifyingly fast time of 2 hours, 19 minutes, and 44 seconds.

A couple cool shots taken by @christian_cattell of @chimney_jim and I on the last hundred feet of the Nose. We got the speed record yesterday at 2:19:44! In this final section our stoke was high as we knew we had it in the bag! Maybe the hardest physical thing I’ve ever done. @gramicci

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Racked with just 8 cams, 11 draws, and 14 carabiners (according to Climbing Magazine), the two completed a race against time that Brad noted as being

“The most dangerous thing I’ve ever done.”

Watch a timelapse of this new record-breaking ascent:

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