Photo: teejaybee
Here is a single workout I do (sometimes 2 times a day):
Warm-up
I start each workout by hanging on the upper jugs of the hangboard for maybe 10-15 seconds or so. To continue the warm-up I do 10 pull-ups on the lowest of pinches (very positive and not tweaky on the fingers at all).
One arm lock-offs
Next it is one arm lock-offs on the same pinches. I start with both hands on the pinches do a pull-up and let go with my right hand first holding with my left arm in a locked off position for 10 seconds. I then do this with the right hand for 10 seconds and then again with the left for 10 seconds and then one last time with the right for 10 seconds. Without coming off I campus to the upper jugs do a pull-up and bring my knees up into an L-hang. I hold that for 10 seconds and then lower my arms to a 90 degree angle and hold for another 10 seconds before finally dropping off.
L-hangs
Next it is more L-hangs. I grab the slopers directly below the jugs do a pull-up, hold an L-hang for 10 seconds, bring my arms to 90 degrees hold it for 10 seconds, and then repeat this 3 more times without leaving the L-hang position or letting go of the slopers.
Pull-ups
Then it is 10 pull-ups on the smallest two finger pockets followed by 10 pull-ups on the bad pinches on either side of the board. Then I go to my other board and do 10 pull-ups on the smallest crimps, 10 pull-ups on the biggest crimps, and 10 pull-ups on the middle slopers.
Campusing
After this it is back to the blue board again. This is the most difficult part to explain so bear with me. I start with both hands on the good pinches down low. I campus first with my right hand to the crimp rail on the middle of the board then with my left hand to the jug at the top. Then right hand to the jug. Hang, then bring left hand to same crimp rail, campus back down into the pinches with both hands and repeat this 3 more times switching which hand goes to the crimp rail first.
More pull-ups
And then finally I do 10 pull-ups on the first good pinch and then campus to the jug and do 10 more pull-ups and by that time am pretty exhausted and can barely crutch back into the house!
Related: Strength or Power? Improving Your Climbing with Plyometrics Training
Workout summary
Warm Up
- Hang on upper hangboard jugs for 10-15 seconds
- 10 pull-ups on lowest of pinches
Exercises
- One arm lock-offs for 10 seconds each (pull up with both hands, then drop one arm; L & R arm two times each)
- Without coming off, campus to upper jugs, do pull up, bring knees up into L-hang for 10 seconds; drop to 90 degrees for another 10 seconds
- L-hangs on slopers for 10 seconds from pull-up position, 10 more seconds at 90 degrees; repeat 3 more times
- 10 pull-ups from smallest two finger pockets
- 10 pull-ups on bad pinches
- 10 pull-ups on smallest crimps
- 10 pull-ups on biggest crimps
- 10 pull-ups on middle slopers
- Start with hands on good pinches, campus one hand to crimp rail, other hand to top jug, then match to other top jug; hang then lower back down same holds; repeat 3 more times switching first campus hand.
- 10 pull-ups on good pinches with a final campus to jugs
- 10 more pull-ups from jugs
Check out this older video of Paul training as a young crusher:
Related: Planning the Training Plan to Become “Rock Prodigies”
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