A Comparison of Popular Hangboard Programs

Michelle Lloyd-Dedischew

7 years ago

One of the most commonly used, and effective training tools, is the hangboard.

Yes, hangboards have been around for some time now, and you’ve likely seen one or even used one at your gym. Because of their growing popularity, a number of training programs have been developed. With so many on the market at this point, it can be a bit overwhelming to make an educated decision about which one will help you meet your climbing goals.

To make that process easier, here is a comparison of three popular offerings by:

Anderson Brothers
Chris Webb Parsons
Athlete By Choice (Duncan Brown)

Let’s start by noting the commonalities:

All of these programs can be performed on any hangboard.
They all have a shared target of increasing finger strength.
For maximum gains, they should all be supplemented by additional training.

With that in mind, let’s break down what makes each unique.

Anderson Brothers training program

The Anderson Brothers—forefathers of the Rock Prodigy Training System—have recently turned out research to confirm that hangboarding does indeed positively effect climbing-specific finger strength.

Now, of course, it’s important to note that their research was solely geared toward their product, the Rock Prodigy Training Center. It’s compelling nonetheless.

Anderson Brothers hangboarding at a glance

Based on repetitions of short hangs (7 seconds), called repeaters
Targets a variety of holds and does well to build overall finger strength
Scalable program: entry-level hangboarders can use the pulley system to take weight off, while advanced climbers can use it to target more advanced grip positions or add weight
Great power endurance program

For an overview of their program and a beginner workout, check out this Training Beta article, or, for their full training program, purchase their book.

Rock Prodigy Training Center

View Lowest Prices: Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center

Rock Climber’s Training Manual

View Lowest Prices: Rock Climber's Training Manual

Chris Webb Parsons training program

Chris Webb Parsons is an ungodly strong boulderer from Australia who a developed a rather intense hangboard routine, guaranteed to make gains for the right climber.

This program is not a good choice for a novice hangboarder or new climber due to its intensity. If you’ve never hangboarded before, look at the Anderson Brothers program to start and work your way up to this.

Chris Webb Parsons hangboarding at a glance

Simple to follow
Quick workouts: this program works on the target grip position for 5-10 seconds with ample rest
Intense: one arm hangs (with the assistance of a rope for the other)
Targets crimps
Addresses lock off strength in addition to finger strength
Strength-based program

Watch for full details of the program:

Athlete By Choice training program

Athlete By Choice trainer, Duncan Brown, has developed a series of programs to target different training goals. While I’ve used many of his hangboard programs, these two stand out as solid options to check out.

The Opposing Pyramid hangboarding at a glance

Simple: this program incorporates a combination of pull-ups and dead hangs; starts with longer hangs and minimal pull ups, works its way up to short, intense hangs with max pull-ups, then back down
Quick: this program takes about 10 minutes
Scalable: this program is great for entry-level and expert hangboarders alike
Can be adjusted to also target power (make the pull-ups explosive!)

See the full workout here.

Red Dragon hangboarding at a glance

Duncan created this program to train specifically for a project route. It’s a wonderful program that also speaks to using the hangboard like a systems wall to create and target specific movement that you’re trying to develop.

Rather involved: this is not the most simple program to follow; I needed my computer next to me the whole time to remember what to do next.
Full body workout: targets core, pull muscles, finger strength, and includes a bit of cardio
Power/strength routine
Fun: the variation keeps the workout far more interesting than monotonous dead hangs
Adjustable to address your specific needs if you are targeting a project or grip position

See the full workout here.

What program is right for you?

Now that you know all of this, how do you make your decision?

1. Consider where you are at in your climbing career

If this is your first time hangboarding, be aware of the work you’re going to put your finger tendons through. Hangboarding is notorious for creating finger injuries, so be safe and select a program that eases you into this type of work. You can always make it more intense later.

2. How much time do you have?

Pick a program that fits your time commitment level. If you know the only time you can hangboard is for 20 minutes before the kids wake up, don’t choose the 45-minute program.

3. What are you targeting?

Are you just starting off? Then perhaps the Anderson Brothers’ program is best for you. By contrast, if you have done the Anderson Brothers program 100 times, consider a more intense program like Duncan’s or Chris’ … especially if you know you need to develop lock off strength or power.

Happy training!

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