In this episode of DangerStikTV, high altitude climber and mountaineer Adrian Ballinger commits to setting goals to improve his sport climbing. If you have been thinking about setting goals for your climbing, this is a great example of moving from the big goal, to identifying areas for improvement, and then to choosing specific workouts that get you closer to your goal.

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So what are the goals that coach, girlfriend, and professional rock climber Emily Harrington have set for Adrian?

Project a hard route in Oliana, Spain.

Related Post: A Tale of 10,000 Crags: Guide for How (and Where) to Rock Climb in Spain


How will Emily get Adrian ready for Oliana?

  1. Increase flexibility
  2. Increase strength and power for specific moves
  3. Increase endurance to hold on, learning to project

What specifically does Emily have planned for Adrian to improve?

  1. Yoga for improved flexibility
  2. Hangboarding for strength
  3. Roped climbing for power

When Adrian says he should work on endurance because he falls off of routes, Emily replies:

That’s not why you fall off routes. You fall off routes because it’s too hard.

Thus, Adrian will be doing strength and power exercises.