Adam Ondra finally decides to set a route he has been looking at for years. Wondering if the route is even possible you can watch as Adam examines and set bolts to give this mystery climb its first send.
Since chipping, or making surfaces into holds is strongly against the climber ethics, Adam needs to rappel down and see if this route is possible.
- Before setting a route check with the local climbing authorities to determine what type of climbing bolts are recommended or required for the type of rock. Smaller expansion bolts might be used in hard limestone but in sandstone, you may need to use long 16 or 18 mm glue-in bolts.
- When examining the route make sure to consider where to put the bolt on the rock.
- Check the sound of the rock with a lite tap of a hammer to make sure the rock is solid and safe for bolting.
- Blow out and clean the dust from the hole using a tube and brush.
- Insert the type of bolt to be used. Follow the specific instructions for the type of bolt selected.
- Clean the route with a brush to remove dirt and dust. You may need to let the rock dry after cleaning for the holds to dry up.
- Typically the route setter can determine if the route is open for others to climb. The setter gets the first chance to make the send.
Want to see more of Adam Ondra on route setting?
Don’t miss his YouTube episode on his visit to Czechia where the local climbing ethics require the climber to set the route while climbing!