Essay: What’s in a Grade? — How to Approach Climbing Difficulty
Like most people, I try to improve in both climbing and in life. I’m a pretty good guy, but I want to be an all-around great guy. I think I’m a pretty good climber, but I want to be a better climber. And this is where numbers come in. Numbers help us track our...
2nd Ascent of ‘Metanoia’ on North Face of the Eiger
In 1991, Jeff Lowe went on a solo mission up a line on the North Face of the Eiger—an accomplishment many considered crazy. The name of the route, Metanoia referenced a Greek term meaning "a fundamental change of thinking." It wasn't until December 30, 2016—a whopping...
Photo Story: Winter Climbing in Hyalite Canyon, Montana
Hyalite Canyon, located just outside of Bozeman, Montana is a mecca for ice climbers. Just about every day, be it the weekend or the middle of the week, you can find handfuls of parties exploring the hundreds of climbs found in the area. If you show up late in the...
5 Exercises for Developing a Stronger Core with Eric Hörst
The core muscles of the torso are called into play on every climbing move. Most of us know that a strong core is the foundation for any strong climber. And, if you're going to trust any authority on the subject, then it ought to be Eric Hörst—one of the leading...
Style: Is It An Excuse Holding You Back?
I'll be the first to admit, I love technical-small hold-crimping hard-exhale on the twist type climbing! The smaller the holds, the better. The more precision needed, the more psych I get. On the contrary, those gigantic jumps that span four to six feet to massive...
Climber Confessional: A Lesson in Backing Up Your Systems
Fuuucckkk I heard Don groan 15 feet below me. I had just led an old-school 5.9 gear line, and Don—a relative neophyte—couldn’t pull the crux moves as he followed the route. I was belaying from the top of the pitch in guide mode on my trusty ATC Guide. God, what a...
Third Ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s ‘Illusion of Safety’ (V13)
This week's Friday Flick Pick takes us to Cowell, Arkansas, where we see climber Nick Chavis achieve the third ascent of the bold line, Illusion of Safety (V13). First established by Nalle Hukkataival several years ago and repeated by Ian Dory soon after, this problem...
Climbing News: A Roundup of What’s Happening Out There
The ins and outs of House Bill 621 Editor's Update: Due to an outpouring of public dissent, Rep. Jason Chaffetz (R-UT) has now withdrawn H.R. 621. https://www.instagram.com/p/BP_zOxEF0-Q/ Last week, Rep. Jason Chaffetz (R-UT) introduced H.R. 621 to the U.S. House of...
How Our Hormones Can Help Us Send
This one's for all of you lady crushers out there! This is also for men who are interested in why their girlfriends and female friends seem to crush so hard at certain times of month. Understanding the effect of your hormones Every woman knows that things like her...
If You Climb Long Enough
I suppose, if you climb long enough, this will happen to you at one point or another. Like many of us, my outdoor climbing reality consists of attempts to coordinate with any number of people interested in getting out on real rock; with the times we actually make it...
6 Tips for Dirtbagging with Your Dog
The first question I was usually asked when I would explain to non-climbers that I was getting ready to move into my van was, “Where will you go to the bathroom?” A close second was, What are you going to do with your dog?” Fellow dog lovers will understand that this...
Alex Honnold and Emily Harrington Climb The Incredible Hulk’s ‘Solar Flare’ (5.12d)
Considered one of the biggest (and best) granite walls in the High Sierra, the Incredible Hulk is on the bucket list of just about every alpine climber. And it's no surprise, given that many of the routes on the Incredible Hulk were first developed by legendary...
Essay: Developing an Ego
Around 4 years ago, I became immersed in the world of climbing development. I’m not completely certain of when I first decided I was going to become a climbing developer, but I’ve always found myself staring up at a wall or boulder and thinking, has anyone tried to...
James Pearson Climbs The Quarryman in the Welsh Slate Quarries
Watch as James Pearson nabs an ascent of the iconic 4-pitch route, The Quarryman (5.13d/e8), located in the slate quarries of Wales. This historic route was originally established by British climbing legend, Johnny Dawes in the 80s and made famous by the beloved old...
The Climber Athlete: An Argument for Weightlifting
I not-so-recently listened to an episode of The Enormocast podcast that has left me thinking for over 2-months. In this particular episode, Dave Allfrey was discussing his recent trip to Baffin Island as well as his thoughts on what it meant to be a climber. More so,...
Gear Giveaway: Metolius Session Crash Pad
New to Moja Gear by user request, we're beginning monthly giveaways of our favorite gear. Each giveaway will run for two weeks, and the winner will be notified and posted to this page. This giveaway runs through Tuesday, February 7th, 2017. Editor's note: this...
The Fins Project: Route Development and Sustainable Bolting in Idaho
Ever wonder how solid the bolts you're clipping are? The truth is, it's never that obvious. For that reason, the pursuit of rebolting projects throughout the nation's crags remains one of the most vital initiatives in ensuring safe climbing for generations to come. In...
Climbing News: A Roundup of What’s Happening Out There
Story 1: Outdoor industry heads vs. state of Utah In response to backlash against President Obama's designation of Bears Ears National Monument in southeastern Utah, two leading figures in the outdoor industry—Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard and Black Diamond founder...
Big Wall into the Clouds: Developing Remote Routes in Africa
Join adidas Outdoor athlete Gareth "Gaz" Leah as he takes on a big wall development mission in São Tomé and Príncipe—a small island nation off the western coast of central Africa. The aim? To establish a route on a remote 300-meter volcanic rock structure known as...
Climbing Destination Guide: New River Gorge, West Virginia
It’s...
What’s in Your Pack: Jonathan Siegrist on His Projects, Climbing in Spain, and Gear Tips
What’s in Your Pack is a series where we speak with some of climbing’s leading athletes to learn about the gear that fuels their success. In this interview, I caught up with Jonathan Siegrist in Oliana, Spain where he tells us about the gear he relies on and his...
